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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. However, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks the family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble shop securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.